Arborist Vancouver

When considering tree care services, many people look at price as the primary consideration. There’s an assumption that choosing a less expensive company or service option will give you a “better deal.” But the fact is that when it comes to providing tree care services, you usually “get what you pay for”. Lower cost often equals lower quality, with worse outcomes for your trees and, in the long run, higher ongoing costs for you. In this article, we look at how low-quality tree care can affect your trees, your safety, and your wallet. If you’ve ever heard some say any of the following, you’ve heard one of the many justifications for hiring the lowest-cost tree service provider. “It’s just a tree …” “It costs too much to do …” “The tree will recover …” “Trees in nature don’t need pruning …” What these statements miss is that trees are an investment that keeps appreciating over time. Not only does a well-maintained tree increase the value of your property, but it can also lower heating bills, protect you from storms, clear the air you breathe, and reduce stress levels. We think those are all things that make getting the best tree care services a worthwhile investment. Common Examples of Poor Tree Care Practices There are some tree care practices that are, unfortunately, still used today although they’ve long been discredited by tree care experts. Below are some of the problems we’re often called in to fix after the initial work is done. Tree Topping We often see trees that have been topped in an effort to make them smaller. No reputable tree care professional will top a tree; we know that it causes irreparable harm to the tree and will eventually kill it. But uneducated and inexperienced “tree guys” still offer this service. Improper Pruning There’s so much more to proper tree pruning than simply sawing off limbs! At the most basic level, pruning involves removing damaged, dead, or structurally weak limbs to improve tree health and minimize damage caused by falling limbs. More advanced pruning methods involve improving the tree’s structure and long-term health. All pruning work should follow the National Standard for tree pruning. This standard recommends, and in some cases requires, the use of specific tools, cutting techniques, and pruning methods to help keep trees healthy and safe. Professional tree care crews will follow the proper standards; others won’t. And the difference is highly visible. For example, poor pruning includes: Lion tailing Stub cuts Flush cuts Heading back large branches Torn bark Pruning too much off Pruning at the wrong time Painting over pruning cuts And much more! Aside from the aesthetic issue (poorly pruned trees don’t look good!), a bad pruning job can compromise the health and longevity of the tree. Here are some of the usual outcomes of poor pruning: Each pruning cut causes a wound that opens the tree up to fungal and bacterial infection, as well as attacks from insect pests. The bigger the wound, the bigger the risk – especially when pruning is done during the growing season. The stressed tree responds by putting out watersprouts and suckers. These thin, upright stems are weakly attached (so they’re likely to break off in windy conditions), grow in unattractive clumps, and look nothing like the rest of the tree. They’ll need to be cut out every year to prevent the tree from becoming overgrown (and dangerous), costing you far more money in the long run than what a proper pruning job would’ve cost. Cut branches can’t be stuck back on and they don’t grow back. Pruning too much, or pruning the wrong branches, can permanently disfigure the tree – and even make it so unbalanced that it becomes a safety hazard. Parts of the tree that are damaged by improper pruning cuts die back, leaving stubs and dead branches throughout the canopy. Painting Over Pruning Cuts We still see trees with bright white “tree paint” covering pruning cuts. Or, sometimes, cuts are coated with a tar-like material. The reality is that painting pruning cuts doesn’t help anything except the company’s profits. In fact, it creates a nice, moist space for fungi and bacteria to destroy the underlying wood; we’ve often peeled away tree paint only to find a totally rotted area beneath it. The one exception is branches pruned during the growing season in areas where oak wilt is prevalent. Oak wilt is heading our way but hasn’t yet been found in our area – and the better solution is to avoid pruning oaks until they’re dormant. Filling Hollow Trees Yes, people used to fill hollow trees, usually with cement. And yes, people still do this today. Cavity filling (filling hollow trees) was practiced by arborists for many years but isn’t done any more by professionals in the tree care industry. Recent research has shown that cavity filling isn’t helpful. In fact, we now know that filling a hollow tree or a cavity in a tree with cement can damage the tree. The cement inside the tree is solid – it doesn’t move or bend. However, the tree moves constantly, rubbing against the filling and causing ongoing internal damage to the tree. This creates a perfect environment for the wood decay fungi that created the hollow in the first place to invade the remaining healthy tissue of the tree. Instead of saving the tree, the end result is a declining tree that’s more expensive to remove because of the cement inside it. There’s no reason to fill a cavity other than for aesthetic reasons; it doesn’t improve the tree’s health and doesn’t offer extra support. If a hollow tree needs structural support, a tree care professional will recommend cabling, bracing, propping, tree guying, or removing the tree – not cavity filling. Piling Mulch Around Trees Extension educators, arborists, and horticulturists have warned about the dangers of “mulch volcanoes” for decades. We know that mulch piled around the base of a tree is extremely harmful and, in many cases, lethal to the tree. The piled-up mulch creates a warm, wet environment against the tree’s trunk and root flare. It’s the perfect environment for fungal pathogens, which quickly start to rot the base of your tree. After a few years, the tree is usually beyond salvage and you’ll be faced with an expensive tree removal job. Yet in neighborhood after neighborhood, we consistently see tall piles of bright reddish mulch carefully placed around trees in a deadly, decay-inducing ring. Any tree care professional who understands what mulch is and how to use it would never suggest or create a mulch volcano around your trees. Just because the neighbor’s landscaper or “tree guy” does it doesn’t mean it’s the right thing to do! Using Climbing Spikes When Pruning Trees Climbing spikes are sharp steel spikes attached to a tree climber’s leg by leather straps and padded supports. They make it easier to climb a tree, especially for inexperienced climbers. A tree worker should only use spikes to climb trees that are being removed. When these spikes are used on living trees, it traumatizes the tree and creates unnecessary damage. Each puncture from a climbing spike kills tree tissue (though this varies from tree to tree). In most cases, isolated wounds caused by spikes will seal. However, over time, groupings of spike holes can cause the entire area on the trunk to die back with no chance of recovery. This happens when a tree is repeatedly pruned by someone using spikes. Professional tree care companies understand the dangers of spikes and only use them for tree removal (or in a few specific situations where there’s no reasonable alternative). Instead, they use the proper tree equipment to ascend the tree, such as ropes and climbing harnesses. This, coupled with their training and experience, contributes to the future health of the tree. Other “Red Flags” Indicating Poor Tree Care Low-Priced Tree Removal There’s a vast difference between what you get on a lowball quote for tree removal versus a reasonable quote. We get it – no one likes to pay to have a tree cut down. And many people think they can do it themself. But when you’ve seen as many disastrous DIY or low-cost tree removal failures as we have, you realize that it’s not worth risking your house, car, or even your life by choosing the cheapest option. When you get a tree removal quote, what you don’t see is: all of the hours of skills and safety training the crew members go through regularly, years of on-the-job experience with all kinds of trees in all kinds of situations, the well-maintained equipment that’s used to take down a tree (cranes and bucket trucks aren’t cheap!), insurance premiums that protect not just the workers but the clients as well (tree work is one of the most dangerous professions on earth and insurance premiums reflect that), licenses and business registration fees, and more. It’s all of those things that make the difference between a job well done and a tree that lands on your house (yes, we’ve had to lift trees off houses after a DIY or poor tree removal gone wrong). Not using PPE Personal protective equipment (or PPE) is a phrase many people are familiar with in the COVID era. But it also applies to tree workers. Proper PPE is essential for ensuring the safety of anyone working in and around trees, particularly if heavy equipment or cutting tools are used. At a minimum, tree care workers should wear: a hard hat, safety glasses or face screen, ear protection when working around loud equipment, and chaps (when using a chainsaw). Quite aside from the potential insurance costs associated with a serious injury on your property, watching an injury occur (or seeing the aftermath of an injury) can be devastating. You don’t want to see someone lose a leg – or worse. Opt for Better Tree Care While poor tree care practices may cost you less in the short term, they’re considered to be poor practices because they harm the tree – and cost you more in the long term. If you want your trees to remain healthy, safe, and attractive for the long term, only hire experienced, knowledgeable tree care professionals who will do the job right. Yes, it may cost you a little more up front, but it’s well worth it!

We agree that homeowners can do some tree work themselves, instead of hiring a tree service company. With that being said, there are some limitations to the extent of DIY tree care we recommend! The key is safety – for you and your family, your neighbors, and your trees. Read on to learn the types of tree work we encourage you to try yourself (with the proper equipment, knowledge, and precautions, of course!) and when you should call us instead. What You Should NOT Do Yourself First things first. We do NOT recommend that you try to cut down a tree yourself. Sure, anyone can buy a chainsaw and start hacking away at a tree. But without extensive experience and knowledge about how a tree reacts when under stress (such as when it’s being cut down), you leave yourself open to serious injury and damage to your or your neighbor’s property. Homeowners are killed every week trying to remove a tree without the help of a tree care professional. Just don’t do it! Take Safety Seriously! The risk of injury from tree work is real, and you should be prepared with the right equipment. Personal protective equipment (PPE) is a must. You’ll want safety glasses or goggles to protect your eyes from falling debris and branches, a hardhat if you’re pruning above your eye level, and gloves that will allow you to grip your tools securely. You should also wear sturdy shoes meant for outdoor work, and heavy clothing that will resist tearing from branches and that you don’t mind getting dirty with debris and sap. Get Some Knowledge Before You Start There are lots of ways to damage your trees if you don’t do the job properly but it’s also absolutely possible to learn how to do basic tree care tasks correctly. Your trees will (hopefully) be around for a long time so a bit of education about how to properly care for them is a wise investment. Besides, nobody wants to be known as the person who killed their tree or turned it into a coat rack! Tree Work to do Yourself Prune Your Trees Pruning is something many homeowners tackle on their own, often without proper training or an understanding of how trees respond to different types of pruning cuts. Be sure you know what you’re doing before you start. Bad tree pruning isn’t like a bad haircut that will grow out – the wrong pruning cuts can leave your trees vulnerable to disease and pests, and can ruin the branching structure and form of your tree’s crown. These translate into more money later on, as well as unnecessary stress on your trees as they try to seal off wounds. That said, pruning is one of the more satisfying tree care tasks you can do yourself and, when done correctly, can have a significant impact on the appearance and health of your trees. Note: Depending on the time of year, you should also check your trees for nesting birds. If you have birds living in your trees and those trees are not posing a danger to anyone or anything, wait to prune until babies have fledged or migratory birds have moved on. We rely on birds of all sizes to keep insect populations low, so give them a little space! Stay on the Ground When Pruning We always counsel homeowners to prune from ground level, using hand tools and telescoping pruners to prune what you can safely reach while keeping your feet on the ground. Staying on the ground means you are stable, safe from falls, and that you can easily get out of the way of falling branches, leaves, insects, and dripping sap. You also avoid the risk of injury from tool blades that may slip out from your hands. If You “Must” Prune From Above Ground Level Pruning that involves standing on a ladder or climbing into the canopy of a tree automatically increases the risk of injury, and we don’t advise homeowners to prune from ladders. But if you do climb a ladder to prune, be sure to use the safest methods. Use a pruning or orchard ladder (sometimes called an agricultural ladder or a tripod ladder) that is a maximum of 8’ high. Pruning ladders are more stable than other types of ladders because they offer wide base rungs and three points of contact with the ground. When it comes to ladders, those three points mean stability, and stability means safety! Can’t I use a regular ladder? No! Step ladders, such as those used for painting, are less stable than pruning or orchard ladders because step ladders are intended for flat, solid surfaces. When opened with their spreaders locked, step ladders require all four feet to be evenly supported. Do not risk injury by improvising with what you find in your garage – buy yourself the proper equipment! Check Trees for Damage From ground level, you can get a good look at your trees (use binoculars to see branches higher up in the canopy). If you see broken or damaged branches in your tree’s crown, don’t climb up to remove them or prune them from within the canopy. This is dangerous for both you and your tree. You can fall and so can branches, and falling branches (and tools with sharp blades) can injure both you and the tree. Branches that are weakened from disease or storms are especially dangerous, as you can’t visually evaluate their soundness and their ability to support your weight. Let a professional take care of crown pruning to remove damaged branches. Another thing to look for is girdling roots, which can strangle your tree. Check Trees for Insects & Disease Because you see your trees every day, you’re in the best position to determine if something doesn’t look right. If you see damage from insect pests or diseases on leaves, branches, or the trunks of your trees, you’ll want to make sure you know what the cause is and how to treat it. Using the wrong spray or needlessly pruning out damaged branches and foliage wastes time and money, will be ineffective in treating the problem, and can damage the environment. In addition, you won’t be able to effectively spray a mature tree’s entire crown from the ground without a spray rig and high-pressure hose. If you’re not sure what you’re looking at or how to treat it, don’t guess. Call us for an evaluation and a bit of education too! We’ll explain what’s going on and how to treat it, and will make sure it’s done safely and efficiently. Plant a Tree You can plant a tree yourself with a little knowledge about how to do it correctly. Learn about the importance of digging a good planting hole and positioning your tree at the right level so that its trunk flare isn’t buried in soil. And please don’t smother it with a mulch volcano! Once you’re ready to plant, choose a young tree that’s balled and burlapped or in a nursery container that’s small enough that you can safely transport it, carry it (not by its trunk!) to its planting spot, and install it without damage to the rootball, branches, trunk, or your back. PRO TIP: You cannot install a 24” boxed tree yourself, even with an assistant. A 15-gallon container tree should be the largest you choose, or an equivalent balled and burlapped rootball size. A young tree that has been staked with a field in the background Stake a Tree Staking your young tree is another task you can do yourself, as long as you can drive the tree stakes firmly into the ground so they’re upright and stable. Because stakes have to be strong and long enough to properly support the tree, you may have difficulty carrying them yourself (get someone to help) and driving them into the ground. You’ll need a sledgehammer and, probably, a ladder (remember that orchard ladder?) so you can apply enough force to the top of the stakes as you hit them. You don’t want stakes to blow over in a storm, as they’ll take whatever is attached to them (your new tree) with them! You can also attach your tree’s trunk to the stakes with soft, flexible, wire-free ties that loosely encircle the tree’s trunk. Be sure it’s not too tight as you want your new tree to be supported but also move naturally in the wind. Apply Mulch Trees, as well as shrubs and planting beds, benefit from a layer of organic mulch spread three to five inches deep and covering the entire root zone. For a newly-planted tree, aim to spread mulch in a three-foot radius or the width of the tree canopy, whichever is greater. Be sure it’s not touching your tree’s trunk, specifically its trunk flare, or you’ll risk fungal and root problems that could kill your tree. Organic mulch breaks down over time so be sure to replenish it regularly. Water Your Trees Trees need water to survive, especially during hot weather or drought conditions. An easy way to water both recently-transplanted and established trees is to set a garden hose near the edge of your tree’s rootball and let it slowly trickle water into the soil until the ground is wet at least 2 feet down. Keep this up regularly, until the weather cools and rainfall becomes regular. On a newly-planted tree, the small rootball represents the extent of the tree’s root system and the extent of its reach to find water, so be sure to water regularly and for long enough that the soil around the tree’s rootball is fully wetted. Don’t let it fully dry out before you irrigate again. This will ensure that there’s consistent moisture and your new tree’s roots can safely grow out into the surrounding soil and begin to establish their anchoring root system. If you have an existing irrigation system, add a new irrigation valve or zone that waters only trees and/or shrubs. A tree’s water needs are very different from a lawn; they shouldn’t be irrigated the same way or neither will be happy. A Final Word While we make our living caring for trees, we encourage homeowners to learn more about how to care for their trees themselves. At the same time, we know full well the risks and dangers that come with tree climbing, removal, and pruning. We urge you to practice caution and use all safety measures when doing any kind of tree work yourself. You should also know that insurance for homeowners and health insurance for individuals may not cover accidents that happen, injury to yourself or others, or damage to your neighbors’ property that result from DIY tree work. It’s not just insurance and safety we emphasize when laying out the limits of what we suggest homeowners do themselves. There’s a huge difference between homeowners and our crews in the kind of training and experience our tree care professionals have, the way we work together as a team, the more powerful and efficient tools and equipment we use, and our familiarity with evaluating tree health, insect damage, disease, soil conditions, and tree vigor in order to provide the necessary tree care services. So while we encourage you to learn how to prune correctly (from ground level!) and to familiarize yourself with how to identify pests, diseases, and warning signs that your trees are struggling, leave the heavy and potentially dangerous tree work to us. You’ll get the work done quickly and safely, we’ll clean up after ourselves, and we’ll tell you what we did and why. And hopefully, we’ll start an ongoing relationship based on a shared love of trees where we trust you to do some things yourself the right way, and you trust us to help you tackle your larger tree care issues.

Although there’s no such thing as completely preventing damage from the most powerful storms, there is a way to minimize storm damage caused to and by trees. By taking some preventive measures, you can avoid the worst of the potential storm damage. How Trees Are Damaged by Storms Most of us have seen what kind of chaos can ensue from a powerful storm. Downed power lines, branches through windows, uprooted trees, and worse. Strong winds are to blame for most of the damage, but rain can be an added stressor, causing flooding and loosening the soil, especially around tree roots. The end result is trees being toppled by winds as the roots are pulled out of the ground. This is even more applicable for recently planted trees that haven’t yet developed a large root system to stabilize them during unpredictable wind gusts. Storms also cause broken branches and even snapped tree trunks, making the trees dangerous to be around after the storm has passed. Broken branches, in particular, can fall without warning, severely injuring a person or damaging a structure below. And don’t forget the damage done to nearby buildings, wires/cables, and satellite dishes from branches that fly about. A fallen tree blocks a road near a house, and caution tape blocks access REMOVING ALL TREES IS NOT THE ANSWER You might be tempted to remove trees to minimize damage caused by high winds, rain, snow, and ice. But, as various storms have hit, we’ve seen that neighborhoods with the most tree cover actually have the least amount of damage and debris. What You Can Do To Reduce The Risk of Storm Damage The best way to minimize the risk of storm damage caused by trees, and protect yourself and your property, is to perform a regular tree inspection. Take some time to examine your trees (from the ground – don’t try to climb them!). See if you spot any of the following issues, all of which increase the risk of damage from storms. Potential Risk Factors Dead or damaged branches and/or trees. Look for deadwood, cracks or splits, hanging branches or any other sort of damage. These are more likely to snap when under pressure from high winds. Diseased or decayed wood. Trees and branches that aren’t healthy are generally weaker and more vulnerable to breakage. Structural problems While a tree care professional is best able to identify structural problems that compromise the stability of a tree, there are some things you can see yourself. Look for V-shaped crotches, crossing branches that are rubbing against each other, and top-heavy trees (where the canopy has been excessively “lifted” to provide more clearance underneath). Severely leaning trees Just because a tree is leaning doesn’t mean that it will fall over. But the more it leans, the greater the risk of failure, especially when rains have saturated the ground. Poor root structure. A tree that’s not firmly anchored is more susceptible to failure during a storm. Things to look out for include girdling roots, cut or damaged roots (such as from nearby construction) and newly planted trees with little root growth. Topped trees We do not top trees because new growth is poorly attached and susceptible to breakage (among other problems). If a tree has previously been topped, it should be inspected for potential safety issues. Lion-tailed trees. This is another pruning method we don’t employ because of health and safety implications for the tree. During a storm, the heavy foliage growth at the end of long, bare branch gets whipped around, breaking the branches. Overly dense canopy A tree with a thick canopy of leaves acts as a sail, rather than letting the wind pass through. Improperly pruned trees. Some trees are mistakenly “thinned” by removing a lot of branches from the interior of the tree, while leaving plenty of foliage around the outside. Unfortunately, this misguided technique makes storm damage more likely. If you notice anything that concerns you, give us a call. Our tree care professionals are trained to look for potential hazards posed by your trees. We’ll be able to address these risks and take proper action – such as pruning or improving the health of your trees – before any major storms come through. If you don’t have the time or the inclination to check for these issues with your trees, you can always contact us for a tree inspection. A fallen tree blocks a road after a violent storm Properly pruning mature trees ensures that wind can blow through the tree’s canopy without causing damage. When a tree has not been maintained or pruned properly, the wind blows against the tree instead of through it, causing it to bend or snap. Along with the heavy rains, large branches are prone to break during storms and the whole tree can be toppled. If you notice crossing branches, dead, damaged or diseased wood, or overhanging branches, we can also use corrective pruning methods to fix those issues and make your tree safer. If you have a tree that has been transplanted or newly planted recently, properly staking it will give it extra support. Some trees, however, may be beyond repair, in which case we recommend tree removal. If a tree is already dead, it’s best to remove it as quickly as possible, as it is almost guaranteed to fall during the next big storm. We also provide storm clean up services for any downed or damaged trees or branches. In Summary Trees are part of our history and should be part of our future. They have the capability to withstand powerful winds and rains, but only if they’ve been given proper care. Consider the benefits of preventive pruning. Regular tree maintenance and pruning by a qualified tree service professional is the best way to keep your trees healthy and minimize the risk of storm damage. Investing in these services now can save you a lot of time, energy, and money in the future.

Most people only think about tree pruning, removal, inspections, and other arboricultural work during the growing season. (Unless a winter storm damages their trees!) Why is that? When the snow melts and temperatures finally rise in spring, people are naturally drawn outdoors. They prepare their garden for seeds or planting. They see plants for sale in the garden centers. As homeowners look around their yard, they start to see issues in their trees. Maybe a branch isn’t growing any new leaves, or it’s clear that a tree that appeared dormant is actually dead. Summer is typically filled with more outdoor activity when the weather is generally pleasant and everything is in bloom. During the extended time spent outdoors, you’re more likely to notice any issues with your trees or shrubs. That’s why we get more calls for tree service in spring and summer. And it’s a good time to do tree work. For example, during the growing season we’re better able to: See where leaves are blocking views, impeding walkways, or hitting roofs Prune for more sunlight or air circulation Spot dead or dying sections of a tree See When to Prune Trees But spring and summer aren’t the only time of year to have tree work done. In fact, there are many benefits to having tree work completed during the winter months. Benefits of Winter Tree Work The lack of leaves on deciduous trees during the winter months makes any issues easier to spot. While there’s nothing wrong with hiring tree service professionals in the spring or summer (or even fall), there are some jobs that are best left until winter. For example, it’s best to prune fruit trees in late winter if you want more fruit next year. Beyond that, doing tree work in winter has a number of benefits – for you and for your trees. It’s Easier to See the Tree’s Structure While most people only notice dead branches during the growing season (relying on the lack of leaves as a tell-tale sign), tree care professionals are trained to spot a dead branch or limb even in the middle of winter. In fact, the lack of leaves on deciduous trees can actually help us, as we can see the branches and limbs without the cover of foliage. This allows us to not only spot any dead or dying branches, but also any crossing branches or structural issues that can be resolved by professional pruning. It’s also helpful with tree removals. The lack of leaves means less cleanup and can allow our climbers and equipment to more easily access the tree. Frozen Ground Minimizes Damage It’s impossible to avoid all damage to the ground during a large tree pruning or removal job (although we always do our best!). But when the ground is frozen, our equipment and any branches or logs that hit the ground won’t make nearly as much of an impact. Plus, heavy equipment can often be used to access areas where the soft ground wouldn’t let us go during spring or summer. Pests and Diseases are Dormant Most tree pests and diseases are dormant during the winter months, so they won’t have an opportunity to harm the tree by entering through any pruning cuts. Some trees, such as elms, should not be pruned during warmer weather (unless absolutely necessary) because of the threat of spreading Dutch elm disease. Winter Pruning Gives Trees Time to “Heal” Just as our bodies create a scab over a wound to help it heal, trees need time to seal off pruning cuts. Pruning in winter gives the tree a longer time to heal before warmer temperatures arrive and new growth appears. Allowing the pruning cut time to heal also prevents pests or disease from entering the open wounds. Removing damaged limbs or trees prevents winter storm damage Weak, broken, or dead branches are much more likely to fall when covered with a heavy layer of snow or ice. Similarly, a dead tree may cause more issues with falling branches (or the entire tree falling) during winter storms. Removing the dead, dying, or dangerous branches in winter can prevent some winter damage. Plus, a winter tree removal can bring peace of mind the next time a winter storm blows through our area. Not All Trees Should be Pruned in Winter While winter is generally a good time to prune, there are some trees that do better if they are NOT pruned in winter. Spring-flowering trees, for instance, should not be pruned except to remove dangerous or broken sections. Winter pruning will remove all the flower buds that developed in fall, meaning there’ll be no flowers in spring. Instead, prune early spring flowering trees and shrubs right after they finish flowering. Winter Tree Work Depends on Weather Conditions Intense cold, high winds, blowing snow, and ice-covered trees mean that we hit “pause” on winter tree work. Not only is it dangerous for our crews, but pruning trees in extremely cold weather can damage tree tissue and cause lasting damage. We won’t work on trees during dangerous weather conditions, so you don’t have to worry that we will be putting your safety or your property at risk. Need a Hand With Winter Tree Work? If you know that your trees need to be pruned or removed, don’t wait to contact us today for your personalized estimate. If you’re not sure if pruning would benefit your trees, we can come to your property and advise you. Either way, know that you don’t have to wait for the weather to warm to check “professional tree care” off your yard care to-do list!

Tree roots are often blamed for ruining a lot of things around them. They have been known to lift sidewalks, infiltrate sewage systems, and cause tripping hazards. But are tree roots the true culprit, or are they taking the fall for the real issue? We investigate. Join us as we get to the root of these issues… The Suspect: Tree Roots – The roots of a tree have been found in an unlikely location. We know that roots are how plants, including trees, receive nutrients, water, and oxygen. They also help to steady a tree, providing stability in high winds and storms. Location: Your Yard – Most tree roots remain in the top 8 to 12 inches of soil. Though you may have heard that roots take up about as much space as the tree itself, the truth is that a tree’s root system can be about three times wider than the tree is tall. VICTIM #1 – UNDERGROUND PIPES/SEWER SYSTEMS Issue: Tree roots are accused of breaking and entering the underground pipes and completely blocking the entire system, causing widespread blockages and clogged pipes. Defense: In roots’ defense, they will not go anywhere that they do not see an opening. So they may have entered the pipes, but that means the pipes were probably already warped and broken, either from age or from soil movement. The joints of pipes, especially, are vulnerable to failures and breaks. Solution: The roots, which may have taken up the entire pipe system, obviously need to be removed. Blocked sewers must be cleared mechanically (with additional maintenance required at least yearly). There are also chemical foam treatments available, or, if nothing else works, the ruptured pipes may need to be replaced. VICTIM #2 – SIDEWALKS, DRIVEWAYS, AND ROADWAYS An urban tree planted by a road and a sidewalk. The roots are moving the sidewalk that is over the tree roots Issue: The roots of a nearby tree are causing sidewalks to buckle, roadways to crack, and/or driveways to lift up. Defense: Most often this is an issue of the wrong tree being planted in the wrong place. We love our beautiful, stately Live Oaks, but they need a lot of room to grow. If they are planted in the small area between a sidewalk and a street curb, for instance, the roots will not have enough room to properly grow. Solution: This can be easily prevented by planting trees or shrubs with a smaller root zone in the area, ensuring that there are at least 4 feet (15 feet for live oaks) between the tree and pavement, or using some kind of barrier to prevent roots growing under sidewalks or roadways. If it is a mature tree, suggested solutions include moving the sidewalk away from the tree (you’ve probably seen those meandering sidewalks before) to give the roots more room to grow, or creating a bridge over the roots. You’ll see the bridge option a lot in state parks. Other options include using an air spade to remove some of the soil below the roots to create more room. The sidewalk will need to be replaced in this instance, and a meandering version still might make the most sense. Some choose to prune away offending roots, but this should be attempted with caution, as roots help a tree remain stable. If the roots are pruned back, the tree may fall, especially in high wind situations. Cutting too many roots or the wrong ones can kill the tree, so root pruning should only be attempted by a Certified Arborist. You should never pave over the roots of a tree unless permeable material or an aeration system is installed, as doing so will almost certainly kill the tree and lead to many problems in the future. A tree needs water and oxygen to survive, and paving over the roots is like suffocating the tree. If you have to insert a driveway, consider bending it away from the tree (similar to the meandering sidewalks), or using pavers. The pavers are less likely to crack as water and oxygen can still reach the tree roots. VICTIM #3 – BUILDING FOUNDATIONS Tree roots in a building foundation Issue: The suspects, tree roots, were found at the scene of the crime, invading the foundation of a home through cracks. The roots are being charged with ruining the foundation. Defense: Roots are almost never the cause of this problem, but they do help highlight it, and can add to the issue. As with plumbing, roots will go where they see an opening. Like most things, they take the path of least resistance. If roots are found in a foundation, it may point to a recent drought in the area, as foundations tend to shift when significant amounts of moisture are removed from the surrounding soil. Tree roots can add to this issue as they also remove moisture from the ground (since they need it to survive). Remember that in most instances, however, tree roots remain closer to the surface. For concrete slab foundations, what generally happens is that the tree roots are seeking water, and find it below the concrete slab. The soil under the slab slumps, and the foundation can crack without the needed soil pressure underneath. Solution: Again, prevention can go a long way. Don’t plant large trees close to a building – ideally, you shouldn’t plant it within at least 20 feet of your house. If you have a mature tree close to your house, be sure that it is well-watered so that it doesn’t have to go seek moisture elsewhere. Other things that can remove moisture from your soil include gardens, poorly insulated basements, and drainage pipes, so oftentimes the dry soil was caused by other things, and the tree took the blame. Check how those other things are working and if they might be causing the soil around your foundation to dry out. Keep in mind: just because a tree is near to a foundation that is failing does not mean that the tree needs to be removed. A root barrier may be a solution in this case. VICTIM #4 – ANYONE WHO HAS TRIPPED OVER EXPOSED TREE ROOTS Exposed roots above ground Issue: Tree roots are accused of willfully getting in the way of pedestrians, and occasionally tripping them with their exposed roots. Defense: Exposed roots usually happen from soil erosion or from frost heaving, where roots freeze and then thaw. Roots grow in the top few inches of the soil, so this is apt to happen frequently. Solution: Exposed roots should NOT be cut or covered with soil of more than 3”. Cutting the roots can stress or kill the tree, and covering them with excessive soil can cut off the oxygen supply. With exposed roots, mulch is usually the best option. Cover the roots with compost or wood chips, but be sure to only use about 3” of mulch and make sure that the mulch doesn’t touch the tree’s trunk. (Avoid “mulch volcanoes” at all costs). The mulch helps retain moisture, keeps the ground from eroding further, and acts as an insulator, protecting against further frost damage. WHAT DO YOU THINK? Now, having been presented with the evidence, do you think that trees are entirely to blame for these crimes for which they have been accused? Do they deserve to die/be removed for these issues? It’s up to you, but we hope that these facts have cleared up a few things about tree roots, and helped you to root out the real culprits.